NEW EPISODE:“Skaneateles: All-American Legacy & Lake Life”
NEW EPISODE:“Skaneateles: All-American Legacy & Lake Life”
Colombia’s Eje Cafetero, or Coffee Axis, is a region where rolling green mountains, colorful colonial towns, and the scent of freshly roasted coffee beans create a travel experience unlike any other. A UNESCO World Heritage Site, this region is more than just the heart of Colombia’s coffee production—it’s also home to breathtaking landscapes, towering palm trees, and biodiversity that make it a must-visit for nature lovers and culture seekers alike.
I spent my time here exploring quaint coffee towns, touring farms, and marveling at the Valle de Cocora, an ethereal natural park that’s home to the tallest wax palm trees on the planet. This guide will walk you through where to stay, what to do, and how to make the most of your time in el Eje Cafetero.
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This otherworldly valley is home to Colombia’s national tree—the wax palm—the tallest palm trees in the world, growing up to 200 feet tall.Hiking here feels like stepping into a prehistoric dreamscape. Several trails take you through lush cloud forests, misty peaks, and bright green pastures.
Hiking Options: The full Loop (5-6 hours) is a challenging but rewarding trek through the cloud forest and ridgeline. The Bosque de Palmas, or Wax Palm Forest (1-2 hours) is great if you’re short on time or energy, so you can head straight for the mirador (viewpoint) for an iconic photo.Pro Tip: Hike early in the morning to avoid crowds and get the best light for photos. Bring rain gear—the weather changes fast!
The Eje Cafetero produces some of the best coffee in the world, but the highest quality beans are exported, meaning most Colombians don’t actually drink their own best coffee. Visiting a farm—likeRECUCA, the one I take you toon the Eje Cafetero episode—helps you understand the labor-intensive process behind each cup—from hand-picking cherries to roasting and brewing.Pro Tip: RECUCA is not an actual working plantation, but rather a themed coffee experience park where visitors can dress up as coffee farmers and participate in hands-on activities while learning about Colombia’s coffee heritage and trade. To experience a working coffee farm, visitFinca El Ocaso orFinca Momota.
Both of these towns look like they’ve been plucked straight from a storybook, with brightly painted buildings, artisan markets, and relaxed town squares.Salentois the most famous town in Eje Cafetero, known for bohemian vibes, charming streets, and a lively main square. Climb the Mirador de Salento stairs for a panoramic view of the valley.Filandiais quieter and arguably even more beautiful than Salento. This hidden gem has colorful colonial houses and a rich artisan culture, including plenty of shops selling gorgeous handmade goods that reflect the region’s textile and metalworking traditions. Visit the Mirador de Filandia, a wooden tower offering 360-degree views of the coffee region.
Donde Laurita is a cozy, family-run eatery specializing in trout, one of the region’s staple dishes.What to Try:If you’re a fan of white fish, order the trucha marinera (trout in a seafood sauce) or trucha al ajillo (garlic trout) for an authentic local meal. How did North American trout become a Colombian staple? The answer might surprise you. I explore this fascinating history in theEje Cafetero episode of the Globocurious podcast.
A modern take on traditional Colombian cuisine,La Remesa is super stylish and offers stunning views of Filandia’s expansive green fields. This spot sources seasonal, locally grown ingredients to create dishes that elevate classic flavors.What to Try: Order the maduro al chipotle–delectably caramelized ripe plantain, served with chipotle shrimp and melted quesillo cheese, topped with a mix of pico de gallo and guacamole. It will change your life.
One of the best brunch spots in the region,Brunch de Salento is known for their massive pancakes, served with fresh tropical fruit and local honey. The coffee is locally roasted and artfully brewed.
A favorite among travelers,Helena Adentro fuses Colombian flavors with international influences. Their plantain and chorizo dishes are standouts, and the cocktail menu is as vibrant as Filandia’s streets.
If you’re serious about coffee, this is the place to go.Café Jesús MartÃn is a pioneer in specialty coffee in Colombia. Order a pour-over or espresso and savor single-origin beans grown right in this region.
There’s a lot more to discover about Colombia’s Coffee Axis on the Globocurious podcast. Listen now!
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If you’re looking for the best value for your stay in Eje Cafetero, consider booking an Airbnb. Many coffee farm-style houses and boutique apartments offer an authentic experience with stunning views of the region. Plus, Airbnb stays in Eje Cafetero are incredibly affordable and often come with luxurious perks like outdoor jacuzzis and stunning terraces.
A luxurious coffee farm stay in Armenia,Hacienda Bumbusa offers incredible food, horseback riding, and private coffee tours.
Near Valle de Cocora,Glamping Lumbre lets you sleep in luxury tents with breathtaking views of the cloud forest.
A stylish, eco-friendly guesthouse in Filandia,Casa du Vélo is perfect for travelers who want a peaceful nature escape with modern comforts. It’s a self-proclaimed cycling hotel meant to give cycling enthusiasts a comfortable place to rest after a day spent exploring the stunning region on two wheels.
Hotel Salento Real is a cozy and gorgeously appointed mid-priced boutique hotel in Salento with charming colonial decor and a great location.
If you’re planning to hop between towns, renting a car is the best option. The roads are winding but scenic, and driving gives you flexibility to stop at viewpoints, coffee farms, and small villages along the way.
Taxis and rideshare services like InDriver work well within larger towns, but for long distances, it’s best to hire a driver through your hotel.
Public buses connect Salento, Filandia, Armenia, and Pereira, but the region’s most iconic transport is the Willys Jeeps, which take travelers to Valle de Cocora and coffee farms. They’re cheap, fun, and part of the local culture.
Before you head to Colombia’s Coffee Axis, here are a few things to keep in mind:
The Coffee Axis is warm during the day (70s-80s°F) but can get chilly at night. Bring layers and rain gear, especially if hiking Valle de Cocora, which often sees mist and rain.
December to February and July to September offer the best weather. Avoid Easter and Christmas holidays if you prefer fewer crowds.
Eje Cafetero is at a higher elevation, so stay hydrated and take it easy when hiking if you’re not used to the altitude.
Expect well-paved but highly winding mountain roads. If you’re renting a car, drive cautiously and avoid night driving outside major towns, especially since so many kinds of animals are known to pop up along the road unexpectedly.
Ready to dive deeper into Colombia’s Coffee Axis? Listen to Globocurious to become immersed in the region’s landscapes, economies, and people.
And for even more personal stories and insider travel tips, join me on the Globocurious Substack!
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